Battle of the Paddles, South Lake Tahoe

With loud boos and 'thumbs-down' signs, the historic Battle of the Paddles sternwheeler race splashed off across Lake Tahoe this morning.

Several hundred people, some wearing costumes of the paddle steamer era, were aboard the competing ships, the Tahoe Queen and the MS Dixie II.

Despite all the good-humoured booing and cheering, egged on by a costumed MC, we on the Tahoe Queen had to suffer the indignity of watching the Dixie slip past the finishing line first! And of course our young captain had to pay the ultimate penalty: walk the plank, or rather in a modern version, run and dive into the cold waters of the lake.

Taking part in this fun, historic race across Lake Tahoe is one of the best events of the Opening Days summer season launch of South Lake Tahoe.

A champagne breakfast, live rock music and pirate antics accompanied the part cruise - part race. With the sun shining beautifully and the Sierra Nevada Mountains forming a majestic backdrop, it is a truly memorable experience.

On the top deck, passengers were encouraged to run from side to side and up to the stern to help the ship turn quickly for the return leg! While below, great food was served and resident, talented musicians, the Steve Walker Band, played a tremendous selection of popular rock.

To mark the 25th anniversary of the Tahoe Queen, the ship has been beautifully refurbished and a recommissioning ceremony was held prior to the race.

According to the special supplement of the Tahoe Daily Tribune, the race began in the 1980s on Memorial Day weekend but petered out due to poor weather. A similar fate met a second attempt on Labor Day weekend.

But moving it into the Opening Days programme has secured its success! On board were camera crews and a group of writers from various magazines who were thoroughly enjoying the occasion.

After the race we cruised gently and then paused for a parade of small craft decked in a Disney theme to circle us. All of a sudden there were shouts from the lower deck as one of the motorboats misjudged a celebrity twirl and knocked into us. Not quite what Captain Hook, Tinkerbell, Donald Duck and the other Disney characters had been expecting!

But with the quick response of a crew member standing on the outer rim of the ship and some help from the errant driver, the boat was levered away.

When the parade was over police on one of the accompanying launches inspected the side and gave us an 'all clear' before we returned slowly to the landing. Behind us, police on another launch could be seen having words with the over-enthusiastic motorboat crew.

Earlier that morning, the lake had also seen the World's Highest Parasailing Competition take place.

For a report on Saturday's events see previous blog.

South Lake Tahoe Opening Summer Season

Thousands of visitors swarmed to the tiny, picturesque village of South Lake Tahoe this weekend for the fourth annual Opening Days festivities to mark the launch of their summer season.

With an elaborate street party, gondola rides up into the Sierra Nevada mountains offering stunning views of snow-capped peaks and the lake, the World's Highest Parasailing Competition, a paddlewheeler breakfast and race, and top casino shows, the event is a wonderful Californian occasion.

And with Californian temperatures rocking in the 90s for much of the time to fantastic free music, what more could be asked for?!!!

On Saturday morning as myriad stalls and stages were being set up along the main street, we headed for the 'gondola' - cable car -station in the Heavenly Village. Once inside our gondola we glided smoothly over the chalet-style buildings and began a spectacular ascent to Adventure Peak. Below us, Lake Tahoe, 22 miles long and the third deepest lake in North America, sparkled with shades of light greeny blue to dark blue, while around us snow glistened on distant peaks.

On the way up is an observation post at a cool 9,156 ft where we stopped to appreciate the scenery and take photos. Standing on a wooden platform that juts over the mountainside with such a breathtaking panorama is a wonderful experience.

Once back in a gondola we completed the ride to the top. For those who struggle with heights, take heart: the ride is smooth and hugs the mountain at around the height of the nearby firs. For more info and a professional video see http://www.skiheavenly.com/lake_tahoe/things_to_do/gondola/

At the top, the station is set in a hollow offering shelter with a cafe, outdoor seating and a novel bar housed in a round, glass hut. There are also three hiking trails, clearly marked with their degree of difficulty, and an enormous electronic board advising of weather conditions.

But above, for thrill-seeking adventurers, there is the longest zip line cable in North America! This is Lake Tahoe's new edition this year, and for the uninitiated, what this means is that you can strap into a harness from a nearby peak and fly down over 3,000 ft at up to 50 mph dangling from a cable. Apparently, the views of the lake are incomparable from this vantage point! For a flier's view and info see this excellent professional video: http://www.skiheavenly.com/mountain/heavenly_flyer/

However, we strolled along the easiest of the trails and returned to the Heavenly Village as rain clouds were approaching. Soon after, the gondolas were closed as there was a possibility of lightning strikes.

Back in the village, the street was thronging with people as the Block Party had started. The stalls selling artefacts, and fantastic food for just a few dollars, were showcases for local businesses. There were also recreation and art expos, a craft fair, a motorcross show, Flying Elvi Skydive Team, a display of Harleys and Hot Rods with a Ferrari slipped in for fun and a Miss Hawaiian Tropic Northern Nevada pageant.

And there was amazing music. During the afternoon three stages rocked to bands including Zoo2, a cover band for U2, and star performers Tosh Meets Marley, an incredibly talented reggae mix of former members of Bob Marley and the Wailers and Peter Tosh's band. For an after-party by the ice rink, the village rocked to California Dreamin', described as 'A Musical Journey Through the Golden State'.

In the casinos ticketed shows featured an enticing choice: Motown great Smokey Robinson, Yesterday: a Beatles tribute, and singer songwriter Judy Collins.

But a wonderful alternative is to take a sunset stroll along the narrow curved beach and sit on a wooden jetty overlooking the waters of the lake to watch the last of the orangey sun's reflections, until it slips behind the grandiose mountains.

For Sunday's celebrations, see my next blog.